Sportswear Fabric Guide: GSM, Fibres and the Best Fabric for Each Garment
The right fabric depends on the activity: lightweight polyester (120–160 GSM) for jerseys and running tops, nylon or polyester with 15–25% spandex for leggings and compression, cotton or cotton-blend fleece (280–500 GSM) for hoodies and joggers, and woven shells for jackets. This guide explains GSM, the main fibres and what to choose for each product.
What GSM means
GSM is grams per square metre — the weight of the fabric. Higher GSM usually means thicker, warmer and more opaque fabric; lower GSM is lighter and more breathable. As a rough guide: 120–160 GSM is light (jerseys, singlets), 160–220 is mid-weight (t-shirts, polos), 220–300 is heavier (leggings, heavyweight tees, tracksuits) and 300–500 is heavy (hoodies, sweatpants).
The main sportswear fibres
- Polyester: light, strong, quick-drying and wicks sweat; the only fibre that takes sublimation printing. Also available recycled.
- Nylon: smoother, softer and more abrasion-resistant than polyester; popular for premium leggings and sports bras.
- Spandex (elastane, Lycra): added at 5–25% for stretch and recovery.
- Cotton: soft and breathable but holds moisture; best for lifestyle tees, hoodies and joggers.
- Blends: cotton/polyester shrinks less and dries faster than pure cotton; tri-blends add drape.
Best fabric for each product
| Product | Typical fabric | Typical weight |
|---|---|---|
| Soccer and basketball jerseys | Polyester interlock or mesh | 130–180 GSM |
| Rugby jerseys | Heavy polyester or poly/spandex | 200–280 GSM |
| T-shirts | Cotton (lifestyle) or polyester (sport) | 130–300 GSM |
| Leggings and sports bras | Nylon or polyester with 15–25% spandex | 220–280 GSM |
| Compression shirts | Polyester/spandex | 180–220 GSM |
| Hoodies and joggers | Cotton fleece or French terry | 280–500 GSM |
| Tracksuits | Polyester tricot or poly/spandex knit | 220–300 GSM |
| Workout jackets | Woven polyester/nylon shell or softshell | 70–320 GSM |
Finishes that matter
- Moisture-wicking: pulls sweat away from the skin to dry faster.
- Anti-pilling and brushed finishes: keep leggings and fleece looking new or make them extra soft.
- DWR (water-repellent): helps jackets shed light rain.
- Garment washing: acid, enzyme or silicone washes for a soft, vintage feel — see fabric washing.
How to choose for your brand
- Decide the activity and climate (gym, running, team sport, lifestyle).
- Pick the fibre for performance or comfort, then the weight for warmth and opacity.
- Send a reference garment if you have one — we can match its fabric and weight.
- Approve the fabric on a sample before bulk production.
Polyester or nylon blended with spandex: it stretches, recovers, dries quickly and wicks sweat. Use 220–280 GSM for leggings and 130–160 GSM for tops.
No. Higher GSM means heavier, not better. A 140 GSM jersey is the right choice for a soccer kit; a 400 GSM fabric is right for a premium hoodie. Quality depends on the fibre, knit and finishing too.
Ask about recycled polyester when you request a quote. Whether it is available depends on the fabric type and color you need.